The Process of Custom Design: Part II. Modeling.

This the second entry in a four-part series on the process of custom designing a piece of jewelery.

Once a design  is approved, Tony has to decide whether to create a model of the piece using the lost wax process or CAD (computer aided design) .

Lost Wax Process

The lost wax process works well for organic designs and unusual settings. When modeling a piece of jewelery using this process, Tony applies either subtractive or additive techniques. An example of the subtractive approach is when he begins with a block of wax and carves a ring from it by removing the wax in a systematic manner to get to the desired shape and design. When using an additive approach he starts with a smaller piece of  wax and builds it up with a wax pen to get the desired shape. 

And in some situations he uses both subtractive and additive methods.

A wax model temporarily fitted with the stones that will be set in the actual ring.

 

The ring is just about ready for the stones.

 

The finished ring that was modeled using the lost wax process.  Gorgeous.

 

CAD

Tony works with CAD when the piece requires perfect symmetry, intricate details, or numerous stones. He begins by measuring any stones to be used as well as any relevant body parts (finger size, wrist circumference, etc.).  He designs and builds the CAD model based on these two important factors. After the piece is finished in CAD, he will send the digital file to a vendor that will either use a computer to "grow" the piece or that mills it out from a solid section of wax. Another advantage of CAD is that the model can be used to make one or one hundred identical pieces. (Example: bracelet link)

A ring is designed in CAD.

The finished ring that was modeled using CAD.

Fabrication 

Occasionally, the design requires outright fabrication, directly shaping metal into the final form.  In this situation the modeling process is bypassed entirely. This method involves melting the metal into an ingot and using a rolling mill to make a sheet or wire.  The metal will then be shaped and forged in to the components needed to complete the job.

This ring was not modeled using the lost wax process or CAD.  Instead it was fabricated directly from metal.

The wax model or CAD representation is usually presented to the customer for approval.  Then the next step is Casting and that is the subject for the third part of this series.

The Process of Custom Design: Part I. Design.

This the first entry in a four-part series on the process of custom designing a piece of jewelery.

Custom design is an important element of our business at Grimball Jewelers and a service we are pleased to offer our treasured clientele. Many people know right from the start that they want a custom piece of jewelry but sometimes it's not until a customer has browsed our collection and spoken with a member of our sales staff that it becomes clear that they will need a piece created especially for him or her.  Once the need is recognized, it's time for a consultation with our designer Tony.
 
During the consultation, Tony asks a variety of questions to determine the parameters for the piece.

Is the customer looking for something modern or traditional?
• If gemstones are to be used in the piece, is there one stone that will be of primary importance or are there several stones to consider and arrange in a pleasing manner?
• How will the stones be set?  If the customer leans toward a modern style, Tony typically recommends bezel  or channel setting while a traditional style usually looks best with bead or prong setting.






Will the piece be symmetrical or asymmetrical?

As the consultation progresses, Tony does a bit of counter-sketching to demonstrate different ideas about the piece.  Once in a while, he will get lucky and produce the  perfect design on the spot.  But usually he schedules a follow-up where he will present the customer with four or five design options.  When the customer reviews the designs usually one of the following occurs:

One of the designs is just what the customer wants.
• The customer likes elements from two or more of the designs and a new design is required that combines those elements.
  




The designs help clarify what the customer wants or does not want but still need refining.

It's nice when it works out easily but sometimes it takes a bit of extra work to get to perfection. Once a design is approved, the next step is Modeling and that is the subject for the second part of this series.

Below you will find a sample of Tony's counter sketches and design proposals.  Enjoy!

(And if you'd like to see a small portion of custom pieces by Tony, check out our Pinterest account.)

Hers and His Wedding Bands

Band designs

Domed Rings

Gold Ring with Semi-precious Stone

Spider Pin/Pendant with Gemstone in Various Settings